Day 48 & 49
In case you were wondering why is iwan face down on the pavement in the photos from yesterday, i indulged in a street massage or what I call a pavement pounding. It was very physical but bloody lovely. Of course I realised once the second man jumped in that it wouldn't just be for the 25 rupees he originally said but it felt too great to tell them to stop.
The hottest heat I've even experienced 41 degrees today. To put that in perspective the hottest day on record in U.K. Was 37 degrees and everyone was loosing their mind, I remember because I was in after school club at abacus and can remember the adults talking about it.
The temperature limited what we could do getting money form the ATM was too much effort so we decided to stay inside and sample the local restaurant, a club sandwich and pancakes.
We waited around to get the train. Eventually it was time to go, we managed to grab the nearest tuktuk driver who took us on a very long detour stopping off for a few things.
The train station was a hustling bustling mess, there was a carpet of sleeping people. So we decided to try and sneak into the upper class lounge. After following the signs we came across what seemed to be an abandoned staircase filled with a group of teenage monkeys. We hesitated at first due to the hissing and the teeth on display once we tapped into their space, but then I decided to lead the way, eager not to be outmanned by Iona again. As I walked up the stairs I kept my eyes on the monkeys closet to me, 4 monkeys well within jumping distance, my mind "they could easily attack you". Not paying attention to the monkeys around the corner. Before I knew it I felt a very firm grip on my arm looked around and saw a bloody hissing monkey, I had tempted fait. Instinct set in and before it had chance o sink its teeth in I'd delivered one swift punch strait to its abdomen, which saw it fall off my arm and down the other side of the banister. Meanwhile Iona's fight or flight mechanism was out of order so she'd chosen to freak out instead and not by any half measures either. I was surprised that the monkeys weren't scared stiff, Iona literally screaming and yelping in a pitch high enough for bats to understand, very entertaining to look back on. I had to push her down the last flight of stairs as I was being chased by the big man of the bunch with teeth to go with it. As we crashed back onto the platform we saw that the Indians had found the whole ordeal highly entertaining, laughing away. We regrouped and a bunch of Indians gave us an armed escort up to the lounge. It seems that monkeys can smell fear, all you have to do is wave an newspaper confidently and they will soon scarper. The incident left me with a few scratched from where the monkeys nails dug in and a good story to tell in my upcoming autobiography Chapter 19 'The day I punched a monkey'.
We waited patiently in cool comfort. We had to wait an extra 1:30 hours. Soon going to the correct platform under the instruction of a nice guard I had made friends with on my unsuccessful quest to get us upgraded to an Air conditioned carriage, we were met at the platform by another dead body on a bamboo ladder that was being carted around the platform by two men. It was covered in colourful plastic but the feet and ankles were bare and the bodies head wobbled as it was carried. Looking back on it now presumably it had just been delivered to be burnt at the Ghat, our minds couldn't think that quickly and just thought people brought dead bodies on trains.
Once we boarded the train the real fun began. It seemed that our bunks had been taken over by a family 10 strong that spoke no English, we tried to ask them to move politely and eventually some men looked at our ticket and had a good argument presumably about whose seat it was. They still refused to move but squished up enough for iona to sit down. We were both tired and a bit stressed by this point so I decided I would try and make the mammoth journey to find a conductor to try again at getting upgraded. So after finding a conductor after passing 18 carriages I was told come back in an hour I made my way back though the lowest air-conditioned class which felt like heaven on earth, so cool. Long story short I went back nothing changed so I thought I'd try my luck again. Finding the same conductor he took me to a secret compartment with curtains and what felt like the Godfather of the train in it. A man who had more rings than a jeweller and was cold to start with, but by the end was offering me chewing tobacco. He told me not worry about a thing and gave me the number of 2 seats in 3 Air Conditioning and said that someone would be around to collect the money and give me a ticket. I was so happy I left my old ticket with him. I got Iona and we made the long journey/obstacle course up to our new beds. Some time later the ticket man came around and had no idea about the plan the godfather had said to me. He quickly took me away for an interrogation demanding to know where my ticket was "I upgraded and left my ticket with the other ticket man", he wanted me to take him to the other ticket man, of course I couldn't find him and later found out he had gotten off. Once I explained this situation everything calmed down but for a while I was worried we were going to be kicked off as I had no ticket and no proof that I spoke to anyone. 1400 rupees later we were legitimately in our rightful beds.
Upon my return the lovely family across the isle, wanted to know every detail of what happened, as all they saw was the ticket man get very arsey and nearly pull me away up the carriage. Iona slept through the whole thing conveniently.
3 hours later than expected we arrived in Kolkata. Off the train and trying to catch a taxi but felt like everyone seemed to be trying to rip us off so eventually found a young boy with a car who said he would take us for 200rupees. Once we got into the rust bucket of a car we realised he seemed very high. Some dodgy driving later we arrived at sudder street.
Finding a hotel in Kolkata is bloody hard work we walked and walked fully laden from hotel to hotel everyone seemed fully booked until up popped a little ferret who said he knows of a room. We were desperate and really didn't want our story to end like the nativity (in a barn). So we said yes. He took us to the top floor of a wretched concrete block. I had little choice but to book now as there was little chance of me getting Iona back down the stairs she was behaving just like a cow (they hate going down stairs). The fact that it was about 38 degrees outside and were in a top floor room with only a fan meant that we felt like we were melting. Gallons of water later we decided to go out for and get some food. We came back and slept well somehow.
The hottest heat I've even experienced 41 degrees today. To put that in perspective the hottest day on record in U.K. Was 37 degrees and everyone was loosing their mind, I remember because I was in after school club at abacus and can remember the adults talking about it.
The temperature limited what we could do getting money form the ATM was too much effort so we decided to stay inside and sample the local restaurant, a club sandwich and pancakes.
We waited around to get the train. Eventually it was time to go, we managed to grab the nearest tuktuk driver who took us on a very long detour stopping off for a few things.
The train station was a hustling bustling mess, there was a carpet of sleeping people. So we decided to try and sneak into the upper class lounge. After following the signs we came across what seemed to be an abandoned staircase filled with a group of teenage monkeys. We hesitated at first due to the hissing and the teeth on display once we tapped into their space, but then I decided to lead the way, eager not to be outmanned by Iona again. As I walked up the stairs I kept my eyes on the monkeys closet to me, 4 monkeys well within jumping distance, my mind "they could easily attack you". Not paying attention to the monkeys around the corner. Before I knew it I felt a very firm grip on my arm looked around and saw a bloody hissing monkey, I had tempted fait. Instinct set in and before it had chance o sink its teeth in I'd delivered one swift punch strait to its abdomen, which saw it fall off my arm and down the other side of the banister. Meanwhile Iona's fight or flight mechanism was out of order so she'd chosen to freak out instead and not by any half measures either. I was surprised that the monkeys weren't scared stiff, Iona literally screaming and yelping in a pitch high enough for bats to understand, very entertaining to look back on. I had to push her down the last flight of stairs as I was being chased by the big man of the bunch with teeth to go with it. As we crashed back onto the platform we saw that the Indians had found the whole ordeal highly entertaining, laughing away. We regrouped and a bunch of Indians gave us an armed escort up to the lounge. It seems that monkeys can smell fear, all you have to do is wave an newspaper confidently and they will soon scarper. The incident left me with a few scratched from where the monkeys nails dug in and a good story to tell in my upcoming autobiography Chapter 19 'The day I punched a monkey'.
We waited patiently in cool comfort. We had to wait an extra 1:30 hours. Soon going to the correct platform under the instruction of a nice guard I had made friends with on my unsuccessful quest to get us upgraded to an Air conditioned carriage, we were met at the platform by another dead body on a bamboo ladder that was being carted around the platform by two men. It was covered in colourful plastic but the feet and ankles were bare and the bodies head wobbled as it was carried. Looking back on it now presumably it had just been delivered to be burnt at the Ghat, our minds couldn't think that quickly and just thought people brought dead bodies on trains.
Once we boarded the train the real fun began. It seemed that our bunks had been taken over by a family 10 strong that spoke no English, we tried to ask them to move politely and eventually some men looked at our ticket and had a good argument presumably about whose seat it was. They still refused to move but squished up enough for iona to sit down. We were both tired and a bit stressed by this point so I decided I would try and make the mammoth journey to find a conductor to try again at getting upgraded. So after finding a conductor after passing 18 carriages I was told come back in an hour I made my way back though the lowest air-conditioned class which felt like heaven on earth, so cool. Long story short I went back nothing changed so I thought I'd try my luck again. Finding the same conductor he took me to a secret compartment with curtains and what felt like the Godfather of the train in it. A man who had more rings than a jeweller and was cold to start with, but by the end was offering me chewing tobacco. He told me not worry about a thing and gave me the number of 2 seats in 3 Air Conditioning and said that someone would be around to collect the money and give me a ticket. I was so happy I left my old ticket with him. I got Iona and we made the long journey/obstacle course up to our new beds. Some time later the ticket man came around and had no idea about the plan the godfather had said to me. He quickly took me away for an interrogation demanding to know where my ticket was "I upgraded and left my ticket with the other ticket man", he wanted me to take him to the other ticket man, of course I couldn't find him and later found out he had gotten off. Once I explained this situation everything calmed down but for a while I was worried we were going to be kicked off as I had no ticket and no proof that I spoke to anyone. 1400 rupees later we were legitimately in our rightful beds.
Upon my return the lovely family across the isle, wanted to know every detail of what happened, as all they saw was the ticket man get very arsey and nearly pull me away up the carriage. Iona slept through the whole thing conveniently.
3 hours later than expected we arrived in Kolkata. Off the train and trying to catch a taxi but felt like everyone seemed to be trying to rip us off so eventually found a young boy with a car who said he would take us for 200rupees. Once we got into the rust bucket of a car we realised he seemed very high. Some dodgy driving later we arrived at sudder street.
Finding a hotel in Kolkata is bloody hard work we walked and walked fully laden from hotel to hotel everyone seemed fully booked until up popped a little ferret who said he knows of a room. We were desperate and really didn't want our story to end like the nativity (in a barn). So we said yes. He took us to the top floor of a wretched concrete block. I had little choice but to book now as there was little chance of me getting Iona back down the stairs she was behaving just like a cow (they hate going down stairs). The fact that it was about 38 degrees outside and were in a top floor room with only a fan meant that we felt like we were melting. Gallons of water later we decided to go out for and get some food. We came back and slept well somehow.
Day 50 - 31/03/2017
We woke gasping for water, surrounded by ants and wet with sweat. We vowed to find another place which had AC. But first we needed to get some food, after a quick look on trip advisor we headed to Curd Corner a tiny little cafe with only one table, luckily it was empty. The man in there cooked us our best breakfast, iona a mixed fruit and muesli sight curd and myself a very thick sweet pancake.
After we explained about our shit room the chef recommended we go Capital hotel. They had room and after a quick haggle we agreed on 1300 rupees.
Then our 5 mile walk of the day began. We decided we would go to the Mother House (Mother Theresa house) to learn more about her and the amazing work she had done.
On the way we truly got a view of the true Kolkata, poor people laying bare on the floor in festering piles of rubbish, dead rats at every 5 paces. But it was very peaceful at the Mother House, the place was filled with inspirational quotes of hers. She really seemed to be an amazing woman that dedicated her life to help others sacrificing any of her own wants for the needs of others. We sat next to her tomb and put a prayer into the prayer box. We left going back into the filthy streets Mother house felt like an oasis of peace and tranquillity in a sea of noise and poverty. We left with some of the inspirational quotes in our head and realised the need to smile, probably looking like weirdos smiling at everyone we passed as we made our way to Park street cemetery.
Park street cemetery is another amazing peaceful place. It had been let go a bit since its hayday but that made it even more intriguing huge mature trees in between massive gothic tombs. What really struck us was the age of so many of the people lay to rest here weren't over 30 years of age.
We carried on our walk to Macambo a very posh place that is styled like an old colonial gentlemen's club with red leather booths and low hanging lights. Of course we were far from fit for the place looking like we had got out the shower and put on our clothes a green vest, shorts and flip flops. But they were more than happy to see us and gave us a nice table after a look at the menu we decided we would just get a cocktail and save the food for somewhere cheaper. I got a silver gin fizz and Iona a Tom Collins. They were the nicest things we have drunk on the trip so far. Mine was just perfect, refreshing and delicious. I need to learn how to make cocktails. The Alcohol didn't take long to take effect and made us both very merry.
We went back to our room to enjoy a lay down before heading out to our favourite pizza place for another delicious supper.
After we explained about our shit room the chef recommended we go Capital hotel. They had room and after a quick haggle we agreed on 1300 rupees.
Then our 5 mile walk of the day began. We decided we would go to the Mother House (Mother Theresa house) to learn more about her and the amazing work she had done.
On the way we truly got a view of the true Kolkata, poor people laying bare on the floor in festering piles of rubbish, dead rats at every 5 paces. But it was very peaceful at the Mother House, the place was filled with inspirational quotes of hers. She really seemed to be an amazing woman that dedicated her life to help others sacrificing any of her own wants for the needs of others. We sat next to her tomb and put a prayer into the prayer box. We left going back into the filthy streets Mother house felt like an oasis of peace and tranquillity in a sea of noise and poverty. We left with some of the inspirational quotes in our head and realised the need to smile, probably looking like weirdos smiling at everyone we passed as we made our way to Park street cemetery.
Park street cemetery is another amazing peaceful place. It had been let go a bit since its hayday but that made it even more intriguing huge mature trees in between massive gothic tombs. What really struck us was the age of so many of the people lay to rest here weren't over 30 years of age.
We carried on our walk to Macambo a very posh place that is styled like an old colonial gentlemen's club with red leather booths and low hanging lights. Of course we were far from fit for the place looking like we had got out the shower and put on our clothes a green vest, shorts and flip flops. But they were more than happy to see us and gave us a nice table after a look at the menu we decided we would just get a cocktail and save the food for somewhere cheaper. I got a silver gin fizz and Iona a Tom Collins. They were the nicest things we have drunk on the trip so far. Mine was just perfect, refreshing and delicious. I need to learn how to make cocktails. The Alcohol didn't take long to take effect and made us both very merry.
We went back to our room to enjoy a lay down before heading out to our favourite pizza place for another delicious supper.
Day 51 - 01/04/2017
Today we had to check out of the hotel so we had the whole day to kill having done everything we wanted already. After walking around for a while we went for pizza again, I had an epiphany that going to the cinema would be a perfect way to kill time, have AC and not having to walk/sweat. It turned out there was a cinema half a mile away so a quick walk and we were in watching beauty and the beast even though we were 20minutes late. It was so perfect felt like being back in Britain. The film was very enjoyable as well.
After we decided to head to the train station early. A taxi in a classic yellow Calcutta cab, saw us delivered to the door.
We sweet talked our way in past the guards to the upper class lounge(AC). Iona looked after the bags while I went for pizza and face timed probably the most famous member of the family award winning author Dr David Davies for his 60th birthday and saw all the Welsh family.
After we decided to head to the train station early. A taxi in a classic yellow Calcutta cab, saw us delivered to the door.
We sweet talked our way in past the guards to the upper class lounge(AC). Iona looked after the bags while I went for pizza and face timed probably the most famous member of the family award winning author Dr David Davies for his 60th birthday and saw all the Welsh family.
Day52 - 02/04/2017
Train to New Jalpaihuri station was fairly uneventful. However it's the last train we will be on in India. The family we sat next to told us it would be better to get off at Siliguri if we wanted to go to Darjeeling as it was closer.
Off we hopped at Siliguri straight onto the filthy railway tracks we followed the crowd out the exit. We used a new tactic we had been told about by an American couple we had breakfast with, Iona stays with all the bags in one spot and I run around like a blue arsed fly trying to find a mode of transport to Darjeeling.
Eventually I found both a shared jeep and where the bus was going from. We chose the bus as it was cheaper 90 rupees. 2.5 hours after winding up and up through beautiful mountains covered in tea plants and up into the clouds we arrived at Darjeeling and met by our Air bnb host lovely Cyrus who had literally just left church as we arrived, ideal. A very sweet chap a teacher of computer science. He walked us down to his flat and helped carry our bag, he explained everything we needed to know and experience.
We left for late lunch as we were starving and attempted to find a very well rated restaurant called Glenary's. My phone died as we left the door. After walking many of Darjeeling's streets seeing the Loreto Convent (where mother Theresa came to pray in silence sometimes for 8 days straight) and the main bazaar we arrived some 40minutes later.
We had lunch and a couple of lovely pots of Darjeeling tea, I am beginning to warm to tea, especially with sugar.
Walked back through the bazaar, bought some north face trousers/shorts for walking for a tenner (probably fake). We found our cozy flat and set up for the night a banana for supper we watched Amy a very powerful and scary documentary about Amy Winehouse's life from teen to her last days.
Once we turned the lights off we kept seeing faint flashes of lights. Eventually iona looked out and we saw an amazing thunderstorm like we'd never seen before. So many flashes like 5 or 6 flashes every few seconds.
Off we hopped at Siliguri straight onto the filthy railway tracks we followed the crowd out the exit. We used a new tactic we had been told about by an American couple we had breakfast with, Iona stays with all the bags in one spot and I run around like a blue arsed fly trying to find a mode of transport to Darjeeling.
Eventually I found both a shared jeep and where the bus was going from. We chose the bus as it was cheaper 90 rupees. 2.5 hours after winding up and up through beautiful mountains covered in tea plants and up into the clouds we arrived at Darjeeling and met by our Air bnb host lovely Cyrus who had literally just left church as we arrived, ideal. A very sweet chap a teacher of computer science. He walked us down to his flat and helped carry our bag, he explained everything we needed to know and experience.
We left for late lunch as we were starving and attempted to find a very well rated restaurant called Glenary's. My phone died as we left the door. After walking many of Darjeeling's streets seeing the Loreto Convent (where mother Theresa came to pray in silence sometimes for 8 days straight) and the main bazaar we arrived some 40minutes later.
We had lunch and a couple of lovely pots of Darjeeling tea, I am beginning to warm to tea, especially with sugar.
Walked back through the bazaar, bought some north face trousers/shorts for walking for a tenner (probably fake). We found our cozy flat and set up for the night a banana for supper we watched Amy a very powerful and scary documentary about Amy Winehouse's life from teen to her last days.
Once we turned the lights off we kept seeing faint flashes of lights. Eventually iona looked out and we saw an amazing thunderstorm like we'd never seen before. So many flashes like 5 or 6 flashes every few seconds.
Day 53 - 03/04/2017
After a bucket shower we managed to clean off the last of the grease and dust from Kolkata. We headed to Kunga a Tibetan restaurant for breakfast I had a cheese omelette and a pancake. The pancake really was a pan-cake if you stacked two on top of each other and whacked some jam and cream in between you'd of got a Victoria sponge. Non the less it was all extremely tasty.
After our full bellies we needed to lay down so we found the botanic gardens and a bench and did so. Half an hour of laying up watching the clouds go by was very relaxing. After seeing 1000's of beautiful orchids. We decided to head to the 'Happy Valley organic tea estate' for a tour of the place and a tea tasting. The tour was only 100rupees so we didn't expect much but it was surprisingly good he talked us through all the different processes for different teas and how altitude and weather effects the taste of tea, he also demonstrated how they did it in the old days. The tea tasting was nice but I guess being new to the tea drinking world it's not a very complicated palette as they all just tasted the same really.
We headed back to Kunga for late lunch/supper. The most delicious mixed (beef,pork and chicken) wai wai soup. So good. The only off putting thing was the generator going just outside the window as Darjeeling had a power cut.
We walked back to our air bnb and it just began to rain.
After our full bellies we needed to lay down so we found the botanic gardens and a bench and did so. Half an hour of laying up watching the clouds go by was very relaxing. After seeing 1000's of beautiful orchids. We decided to head to the 'Happy Valley organic tea estate' for a tour of the place and a tea tasting. The tour was only 100rupees so we didn't expect much but it was surprisingly good he talked us through all the different processes for different teas and how altitude and weather effects the taste of tea, he also demonstrated how they did it in the old days. The tea tasting was nice but I guess being new to the tea drinking world it's not a very complicated palette as they all just tasted the same really.
We headed back to Kunga for late lunch/supper. The most delicious mixed (beef,pork and chicken) wai wai soup. So good. The only off putting thing was the generator going just outside the window as Darjeeling had a power cut.
We walked back to our air bnb and it just began to rain.